After staying a few weeks in Nuku Hiva we decided to go to the Tumotus. It was a three to four day crossing, but after crossing the Pacific, it felt really short. The passage was rough and I was queasy a lot of the time. Nothing really interesting happened on the crossing, but coming into the atoll was stressful. We were able to make it by slack tide, but when you go into the atoll from the pass, the current and waves are strong and big. We made it through without any problems, though, and anchored at a really nice spot.
The water was crystal clear, and it felt like we were back in the Bahamas. It could have possibly been clearer than the Bahamas. With our friends Loco, that had fifteen and thirteen year old boys on board, we took our paddle boards and snorkeled on every rock that we spotted. We took them up salt water creeks and couldn’t believe the amount of sharks swimming everywhere. Everywhere you looked, deep water or shallow, clear or murky, sandy or rocky, a shark was swimming. The biggest shark we saw was about five or six feet long but most tended to be four feet. We also went crabbing a lot, and in one day we had gathered two five gallon buckets full of land crabs. When we had Loco over, they cooked the crabs in a chili sauce, and it was delicious. It was extremely hard to break the shell, though, and not much meat when you did manage to break it open.
The next time we went crabbing, the kids had to collect three boats worth of crabs. We managed to get one and a half buckets full, it seemed the crab population had gone down since our arrival. This time the kids tried to cook the crabs but something was wrong with the oven so we waited for the parents to return before cooking them. This time we pre-cracked the crabs, and it was much easier to get the meat out. We had a bonfire on the beach and burned our trash. We also built a good fort that is probably still there.
We stayed there for a week or more before we had to leave. We went to one more spot in the atoll before leaving and heading to Makemo, where we got provisions (if you could call them that) and speared and caught lots of grouper.